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I completely agree with you on this. I tell people who carry, that you should either carry or not, but don't get lazy and not carry sometimes. The mindset needs to be that, "I carry all the time". In my lifetime, I hope to never have to occasion to use the gun I'm carrying, but in the world that way it is, it is likely that I will need my carry gun at some point. How would I feel if I had the option to carry, needed to firearm to defend myself, but left it at home? Besides, there is no safe place, none. We live in a "Best place to live in the US" area and there is random crime, from arm robberies to car jackings, virtually every day.

Welcome!

They change all the time. In .45, I use CCI 230 grain Gold Dot, and have boxes bought not all that far apart with three slightly different cavities in the bullets. I asked about it, and that’s basically the answer I got: They change all the time. OK then.

I had to look up Avoyelles Parish. Home of Gov Edwin Edwards? I was living down there during his trial/circus in 1985-86. Wow. What a show.

I don’t own either now, but have had both and prefer the M&P. I’ve never had an FN or Steyr polymer frame pistol, but would be willing to try them.

I've never owned a Glock, but have shot them. I just don't like them and much prefer my M&P or XD

It's here. I took a set of rings that didn't fit, a scope I had no plans of using, put them all together and shot a few today. Conditions were "ideal" for airgunning- 22mph winds from right to left- so I couldn't pass that up. http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c240/ColtsR4Football/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsmqkotzke.jpg[/IMG] http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c240/ColtsR4Football/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpstrxuw3u9.jpg[/IMG] Why did I get an air rifle? The shortest answer I can give is: To do a lot of things I use a .22 for (practice, pest control, practice, working with new shooters, and practice). I have .22 rimfires, but I can find air gun pellets easier and stock up on more when I do. Another difference is I can shoot an air gun indoors. And while I have one suppressed .22 that I can shoot out back, it's a lot easier to use an air rifle. There are other reasons such as needing a good one as I get more involved with youth shooting sports, Field Target games sound fun, and others. Or a more specific question: Why did I not just get a $100 WalMart air rifle? Answer: Because I've been down the "starter" airgun route. I wasn't happy at all. I have one "adult air rifle" so its the only comparison I have. That one is an RWS 34 "starter air rifle", a typical break-barrel "magnum" air rifle (1000 fps in .177 claimed) which was at the low end of the quality and price scale for the big boy ones when I got it. I think mine was $150 used, several years ago. they start at around $275 for an equivelant wood stock model now. For a long time, the RWS 34 was the cheapest "adult air rifle" out there aside from the Gamo guns. The RWS and this new rifle? Night and day. Maybe they aren't in the same category, but I'm comparing them because I have them. The thing is, there is no comparison. The first thing I noticed when taking the Walther out of the (nice) box was the stock. It's only birch, but it's a nice piece of birch. It actually has some grain and figure. But what really made the difference was the shape. The RWS stock is quite frankly little more than a shaped stock blank. The Walther stock is very carefully shaped. It looks like every part was made to match the person holding it. It fits my shoulder, the length is right, the grip is closer to vertical than usual but feels perfect, the forend fills the hand yet has a flat enough bottom to rest on bags, the cheek piece is HIGH but a 42mm scope in high rings was right in front of my eye. http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c240/ColtsR4Football/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsj3twince.jpg[/IMG] I threw on an SWFA 16x scope http://swfa.com/SWFA-SS-16x42-Tactical-Riflescope-P53715.aspx using rings that didn't really fit the grooves and got a decent enough zero using Crosman Premier wadcutter pellets. Lacking a bench in the backyard, I sat on a chair and rested it across the deck rail. At 25 yards, I shot a six-round group right at 1". Six rounds because I am sure I threw one, so I shot an extra. Those five are in 5/8" with four connected in a line. Happy. Happy. http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c240/ColtsR4Football/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpstww1idrq.jpg[/IMG] That's nice, but how does it shoot in bare hands? I have a knockdown bunny target that has a variable hole for the trigger plate. You shoot through the hole, hit the yellow trigger plate and it falls. Pull a string and he's back up. The opening for the stop plate is 1.5" with swing-around circles of 1" and .5" to make the opening smaller. I staked Mr Bunny down at about 10 yards and did some offhand practice With the full 1.5" opening I was dropping it easily after getting the hold height right. Swinging the 1" opening over, I eventually got there after a couple of scope adjustments for fine tuning. Using the half inch hole I didn't do quite as well, but made the vast majority of hits. I am quickly learning that an illuminated reticle may be in order to see those tiny hash marks against a lead-splattered plate. The trigger is incredible. I've been reading English airgun forums and tests because that's the obvious source for air gun info. They will lead you to think it's not much of a trigger, but where we are comparing triggers of Remington 700s and ARs, they are comparing $5000 Olympic air guns. It's a two stage, but the first stage might be considered simply a long slack period. It drops way back until you get a touch of a stop. Press a little more and snap, it's off. I'm not adjusting anything. Evidently, we get the "junk" trigger in the USA with a plastic trigger shoe so it will pass drop tests. Yeah, junk. Cocking is smooth. The measured cocking effort in pounds is greater than on my RWS. I had wondered how that would be, since the RWS isn't exactly easy, plus you are using the entire barrel to cock it instead of the shorter lever of the Walther. A few times wouldnt be bad, but this is the type of repetitive action my back does not appreciate. If I hadn't read the Walther had a heavier cocking effort, I never would have known. It's smooth and easy. No problem. I would have guessed it was no more than 2/3 the RWS weight rather than more. When I bought the RWS, the noise and clatter and twang shocked me. I had been reading Beeman catalogs since the mid 70s and "knew" these adult air guns were smooth and quiet. That thing was terrible, and so has been the few other spring air rifles I've seen around. Reviews say this Walther is quiet and almost vibration-free, with more of a dead thud. Eh, this is one place where it didn't quite live up, although it is way better than the RWS. Truthfully, I could hardly stand to shoot the RWS more than a few shots because it was simply annoying. I can deal with this one. You can tell you release a big spring, but it doesn't twang and bounce. The airgun world is full of tuning parts and tricks. These Walthers don't have much aftermarket support out there, but they only came out in 2014, so maybe goodies are coming. I might consider a gas spring conversion. Other than that, and that is not even likely, I wouldn't change anything about it. Oh, it has a lifetime warranty. Big Box stores have "something" for $100 and up. The RWS 34 will cost around $275. These Walthers are on sale in .22 for $389 right now at Airguns of Arizona. It's not even a question in my mind.

I made a post a couple years ago asking how to remove carbon from the bolt and bolt carrier. My conclusion then was to try to scrape the carbon with whatever tool I could find that would work, but nothing I had worked well. I noticed an advertisement in a gun magazine for the Real Avid AR-15 carbon scraping tool. After reading some reviews on Amazon I decided to give the tool a try. While ordering the Real Avid tool, I noticed the "what others also purchased" on Amazon included an interesting tool for the same purpose made by Kley-Zion. I ordered both. I cleaned two bolt carriers, bolts, and firing pins that were almost equally carboned up, one with the Kley-Zion and one with the Real Avid. I found both did the job well and reduced the carbon removal time to less than a minute and did a good job. In the past I would spend a lot longer attempting to removed the carbon and was never able to reach or remove the black crud from the hard to reach places in the carrier or the baked-on carbon on the bolt shoulder. The Real Avid tool tool cleans more hard to reach places on the bold carrier group and has a built in pin puller, while the Kley-Zion tool scrapes the carbon from the bolt shoulder slightly better than the Real Avid. If I had to recommend one, I would say get both and enjoy the better aspects of each . Kley-Zion: Real-Avid:

Had her out today with these for the first time. A few observations: 1. I had two "fail to feeds". They would chamber 9/10th's of the way but I couldn't close the bolt. There's nothing obviously physically wrong with them though that I can see? 2. These shoot higher by about 3" and to the right a tad compared to the S&B 250gr ones I zeroed with. They are consistent. 3. They leave a dark ring of what looks like carbon around the part of the shell that the bullet seats into. Is this normal? It is different from the S&B shells which leave a tad but nowhere near as much as these. Most of the shells chambered beautifully; easier than the S&B ones. I had a few that it was tough to get the bolt down with but ejected perfectly. I had no difficult extractions with these AT ALL, which is different from the S&B's where I have the odd one that I have to give the bolt a bit of a whack at the top of its stroke to eject. Nothing serious, just a bit of sticking. Back when I first got the rifle I had very difficult extractions with it all the time and it ended up needing the chamber polished. Apparently a very common problem with the 110BA.

I have the Lee Breech Lock single station press. It has a much smaller diameter ram and mine is sloppy at best. Do what Woodsoup says and go with the Classic if you choose a Lee. Wayne

The most obvious thing to do would be to buy a 30-06 rifle!

Cool looking tools. I've been seeing this advertised often lately: http://www.gerbergear.com/Multi-Tools/Solid-State/Short-Stack_31-002997N